The current sending unit is between the V of the engine behind the horn area. I actually installed an electrical sending. You will see though there is not enough room in there for much. I ran some plumbing to be able to install my electrical but for your mechanical you should be able to fit it in there.

 

Thanks dmlkm I'll check it out shortly that dam manual sure
is missleading it shows item #8 and lines st.down to something else then.You are talking a o5 B, one would think they'd all be in the same location.

 

I don't have a manual so I can't tell you from a manual perspective but just look behind the horn between the V, it is down in there on the left side.

 

I would be glad to come help you figure it out - I have the same mod to do, myself. Joe

 

If I wasn't at work I'd take pics.

 

Roger they are all in the same place, behind the horn, actually located in the back side of the front head just behind the cam cover chain area.

 

Hey guys I found it but I wished I didn't. How in the heck is a
old guy with beat up finger suppose to get in there.Wished I would have seen that sending unit before I bought the gauge.Oh well now I have a sweet looking back lit gauge that isn't hooked up.
Joe hows your nimble fingers ? Nows the time to be my hero.

 

Hey guys I found it but I wished I didn't. How in the heck is a
old guy with beat up finger suppose to get in there.Wished I would have seen that sending unit before I bought the gauge.Oh well now I have a sweet looking back lit gauge that isn't hooked up.
Joe hows your nimble fingers ? Hows the time to be my hero.

Some have taped a line in another place for a gauge, if you don't want to dink around trying to get one in there go that route, I like this spot because it's the passage that comes from the triple sprocket screw.

 

Location of Oil pressure TAP

Pic from my recent build.
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=120932&d=1218877906

 

Yeah, it isn't east to work down there but I think if you take off the airbox/filter assembly you can fit a socket with a long extension to do the work. I replaced mine over a year ago so I don't remember exactly what I did. Playing with the wires was not too fun either without any room.

 

Easyer said than done

dmlkm no problem removing the air box, but my turbo pleumn is smack dab in the way coming from the top,so it looks like all the work must be done from the side.

 

Taxman Now thats a picture I can relate to.Now if only the motor were out of the bike and upside down I think I could pull this job off.
I want to thank you guys for your helpfully info.and I've desided I'm going to do the install,but I'm going to put it on my
winter mod list,and enjoy the last couple months of my short Mi
riding season

 

LOL! Darn it 98% of threads related to oil pressure gauge install are inconclusive like this one.... :banghead:

 

Mechanical gauges. Installed.....

Stainless steel braided hose mounted directly into the block in place of the sending unit. I think I covered the hose with heat shrink tubing as well as the plastic braided wire loom to protect it from rubbing on anything.

 

What is inconclusive? What info you needing? I have a working oil pressure gauge on my bike, been working fine for years now. Since you have the SE w/o a turbo, I bet installing yours would be pretty easy.

 

Hehe, what I mean is Most threads doesn't show if the OP finally installed the gauge or not... I remember seeing somewhere a pic of yours installed in the airbox cover right? That's the definitely the sweetest looking setup I've seen :notworth: I haven't bought the gauges yet, still reading around... would love to go digital but will probably go with analog/electric ones since I already spent a small fortune to replace the tach and then I'll be very pissed if I spend $100+ in a gauge that I can't install later... Any difference in wiring installing analogs compared to digitals? Also any suggestions on how to get to the stock sending unit "port"? Judging from Taxmanhog's pic it's threaded to the cases, does the thread adaptors included with the gauges fit? I'll probably have my mech install it but I always like to know beforehand and if I guve it a shot maybe I get to do it myself... Sorry, too many questions... :hidesbeh:

 

Yes you are right, in the airbox cover since the SEs have the chrome strip, looked too plain. I'd say the analog ones would hook up the same in that you also need to power the back light. I'm not sure if the adapters fit, it has been such a long time since I did the work I just remember using copper fittings that can be bought at a hardware store. I do remember there wasn't a lot of room to work with but it was doable.

 

Hey "Bad Attitude", I wanted to just send out a warning about using mechanical oil pressure gauges to your bike. I thought about installing one on my Destroyer but was afraid of having the oil line blow or fatigue and having on oily mess everywhere. They are MUCH cheaper, but the negatives out-weigh their cheaper cost. I actually went with an electrical gauge (BTW, Autometer full electric gauges can be found much cheaper on EBAY!), and plumbed it in by removing my airbox tray.

If you want to do a slight bit of extra work, try removing your throttle body and injector manifold if you have fat or fatigued fingers......Depressurize fuel lines then remove fuel fittings..then remove throttle body from black rubber manifold boots by loosening hose clamps...then remove injector manifold. This is the easiest and safest procedure I've discovered for getting to the injectors!! And it should open the area up a bit to allow access to oil pressure sending unit. STUFF RAGS IN THE INTAKES!! Fishing out tools or debris is a pain! Then remove your MAP sensor.

What I did from there is to get brass fittings and COPPER line and made what I will call a manifold and extension. I plumbed in the extension and copper line, then a Tee with the extension coming into the bottom of the Tee, then flowing out to the other two openings. In one I fit the OEM sending unit, then in the other I (will eventually) fit the Autometer sending unit...for now there is just a plug. The access is convenient too. I will try take a picture and post later on.

 

Thanks a lot guys, keep the feedback coming and if I decide to give it a shot I'll share some as well :cheers:

 

Stainless steel braided hose mounted directly into the block in place of the sending unit.

Do you replace the stock sending unit with that of the gauge or you wire it to the stock sending unit's cables? Any idea if both are the same kind or are they different? Would like to keep the stock pressure warning light too so just wondering how it can be done...

 

A mechanical gauge doesn't have a sending unit. The gauge works directly off the oil pressure from the engine, through a hose or tubing. I have seen another member with a "tee" set up where he was going to run the mechanical gauge through a tee with another outlet open for the electrical sending unit. When I read about it and saw the picture he said he had not hooked it up that way yet.

In my opinion, the collection of parts to make this set up looked a little bulky, and I was worried about all that brass fitting weight and sending unit vibrating because it was only supported at the point where it threaded into the motor.

The electrical sending unit has a single wire. I'm assuming the unit gets it's ground from the engine block and the single wire completes the circuit at the light when the switch closes.

The switch closes at 2 psi. Since I eliminated the light, I just have to watch to make sure the pressure stays in a normal range while riding. I have always made it a habit while driving and riding to visually sweep the dash when I sweep the mirrors.

If something happens under hard acceleration, it's going to happen.

I'm not watching for idiot lights during that time anyway. Shift lights maybe, not oil lights.

 

If you want the idiot light and the guage, simply Tee in the line from the base of the cylinders. One side of the T goes to the idiot sender, the other to the gauge sender. Joe

 

:banghead: Ok so it's indeed a mechanical gauge LOL! I thought it was actually an electrical "sending" gauge and you mistaken it, hence my question in post #24 :hidesbeh:
I know what you mean with the big sending unit and indeed the instructions say to have it secured so vibration doesn't loosen it. Thanks for your reply and again sorry for the mix up :lamer:


:cheers: